Penn 105CS Repair Walk-Through


By Maureen Albertson
Penn Parts Dept.
©Mystic Reel Parts

We are doing a breakdown of the 105CS (Also good for the 105C) as a sample to help with re-assembly of these reels.
View the 105CS Schematic
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Start by removing the drag knob, spool and housing cover.

Inside the housing, remove the #43 crosswind arm and #8 main gear. The bearing on that side might be on the main gear or in the cover when you open the reel and you can just leave it where it is either way.

Unscrew the #43B Screw and remove the #43A crosswind block and slide out the #39 spool shaft.

Inside the housing, remove the #43 Crosswind Arm and Main Gear. The bearing on that side might be on the main gear or in the cover when you open the reel and you can just leave it where it is either way.

Remove the #38A locking screw and #38 rotor nut, and take off the #27 rotor cup.

Top of the housing assembly that is underneath the rotor. Note positioning of the parts.

#4 Dog and #4A dog spring. The short hook fits over the top of the #4 dog, as shown in the middle image above. The longer leg on the spring drops down agains the straight edge on the rotor cup, next to the dog post that the spring wraps around. The pin on the #4 dog sits in the center of the hooked leg on the #230 silent dog spring.

The #10 ratchet has a flat side and a rounded side. The flat side goes down onto the housing.

The #19A pinion gear spacer and #230 silent dog spring assembly. The round side of the spacer goes down in the housing, and the hook side of the spring goes under the pin on the dog to the right.

Positioning of the 6D eccentric spring on the upper left against the head of the #6A eccentric, and the #28C trip cam down to the right. NOTE: I'm not going to do so for this walk-thru, but if you need to access the #20 pinion bearing or #19 pinion gear, just remove the two #23 screws and the #21 bearing cover.

The #27A rotor end cover, remove it to access the #28 trip lever, #28A cam lever and #106 cam lever spring.

The hook edge for the #106 spring goes on top of the right leg of the #28A cam lever as shown. The long arm of the #106 lies along the groove you see here, underneath where the #28A cam lever sits.

Remove the 34A and 31 only if you need better access to the #28 trip lever.

The tab on the underside of the #34 bail arm fits into the upper groove in the #27 rotor cup when holding it at this angle as shown, to reinstall it.

Line roller pieces laid out.

The #35A line roller bushing fits into the center of the #35 line roller. It's hard to see on this line roller, but the roller should sit like so between bail wire and bail arm. The #132 metal line roller washer goes into the #34 bail arm with the flat side towards the line roller.
If you find these white #132A line roller shims in your reel (not shown on schematic) I recommend that you put one into the bail arm on top of the 132, then the line roller/bushing and hold those in place. Put the other #132A on the bail wire then put it all together and screw it into place with the #36A locking washer and the #36 bail stud screw.

Moving to the other side of the rotor cup, we remove the #227 bail spring cover to access the bail spring.

Moving to the other side of the rotor cup, we remove the #227 bail spring cover to access the #32 bail spring. Note positioning of the #24 bail wire and the #32 spring at the start of this dis-assembly.

The #32 bail spring fits into the #24 bail wire paddle as shown.

Again, note the positioning of the bail wire. When pushing the #32 bail spring back into place, hold the spring to the paddle with left fingers, and tuck the leg of the spring into the corner of the #27 rotor cup as shown. Then slide the paddle to the right and screw it down into place.

As stated above, I did not remove the #20 pinion bearing or the #19 pinion during this walkthrough. When reassembling the reel, hold the #19 pinion gear up into the top of the housing with your thumb while you reinstall the rotor cup assembly and screw the rotor nut down.

The #38 rotor nut should be screwed down snugly but NOT overtightened. Either one of the holes in the center of the rotor cup can be used to install the #38A rotor nut locking screw. Check to make sure the #60 washer is on the #39 spool shaft.

Underneath the spool, you can see the positioning of the #48 clicker and the #49 click spring, held in place by the #49A click spring screw.

To remove the drag washers, hold the #51 retaining ring by the closed side, and use a screw driver to gently pop the two ends out of the groove in the #47 spool opening.

Left to right, from the retaining ring down into the spool. The metal washers go into the spool with the rounded side down. #51 retaining ring, #57 keyed metal washer, #56 teflon drag washer, #58 earred metal washer, #56, #57, #56 (the first one into the spool). Clean the metal washers and reuse them. You only need to replace them if the washer stack is heavily corroded/stuck together, and you find that they are pitted once you separate the stack. Replace the teflon washers if they look worn. Do not use drag grease or oil on these teflon drags, or the drag will slip.

When you re-assemble the drag washers, make sure the flat edges of the keyed washers line up with each other. Use a small flat head screw driver to straighten them as needed. If you don't, you will have difficulty getting the spool back onto the #39 spool shaft. Make sure that the spool is seated all the way down on the shaft and screw the #52 drag knob back on. Make sure that the knob is not cracked, or the drag will not function.

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